Selvage denim and non-selvage denim both have merits and both fade quite well but others will disagree that selvage is superior in quality than non-selvage jeans. This is speculation that is going to be discussed because not all selvage denim is made equal just like all non-selvage denim is made equal. But remember that this is purely basic information, you will have to choose what you think is better as it is all a matter of opinion and experience as well as other factors.
Selvage and non-selvage can both be made of Cone Denim and Japanese Denim, it may be unusual to discover this information but both types are found in selvage and non. So, selvage Cone Denim holds up quite well with selvage Japanese Denim, again it's based on personal experience. However the non-selvage Cone Denim and the non-selvage Japanese Denim are areas that need to be explored. The non-selvage fabric of both types are the same as that of selvage, it's ultimately personal preference and pricing.
Both fabrics are rope-dyed to give them the most contrasted fades (this applies to both selvage and non-selvage) but the Japanese fabric has a higher quality dye than that of the Cone Denim. The Japanese indigo is richer and darker in color (closer to the red spectrum) so the fades will be more contrasted whereas the Cone indigo is more on the green spectrum which will make your fades lighter and greener in color. When it comes to the heated debate over whether you should choose selvage or non-selvage jeans, you should always choose selvage as a first priority since it is of better quality. The shuttle looms weave the fabric much better and the fabric itself is less likely to tear over the course of the wear.
Non-selvage should only be chosen if you simply want the Japanese Denim or the Cone Denim but don't want to pay the price associated with the selvage denim. It's cheaper to produce because it can be made in a larger sheet instead of confined to 36". Non-selvage denim (Cone and Japanese) produce some great fades because the fabric can be woven into broken twill, herringbone, box twill, twisted yarn, and even frankenfabric (many different types of twill all woven together, if you can find it, the fades are wicked cool!) Non-selvage denim can come in a variety of styles whereas selvage denim is usually soft, rigid, sanforized, unsanforized, right hand twill, left hand twill, broken twill, and rinse.
Both types can be dyed various colors so it's not uncommon to find red denim, green denim, purple, etc. because the dyeing process is completely separate to the weaving process. So go out and try a pair of non-selvage jeans that are rigid for a first try then move up to rigid selvage jeans. If you don't want rigid then rinse is a good start although it will take longer to see fades. Ultimately it's a personal preference but both types (selvage and non) produce great fades when beaten and washed appropriately. Get a pair, either type, and get some fades going on so you can see how they hold up yourself because you may like the non-selvage jeans instead of selvage or vice versa. Next time we'll discuss the difference between the types of twill used to make denim.
Selvage and non-selvage can both be made of Cone Denim and Japanese Denim, it may be unusual to discover this information but both types are found in selvage and non. So, selvage Cone Denim holds up quite well with selvage Japanese Denim, again it's based on personal experience. However the non-selvage Cone Denim and the non-selvage Japanese Denim are areas that need to be explored. The non-selvage fabric of both types are the same as that of selvage, it's ultimately personal preference and pricing.
Both fabrics are rope-dyed to give them the most contrasted fades (this applies to both selvage and non-selvage) but the Japanese fabric has a higher quality dye than that of the Cone Denim. The Japanese indigo is richer and darker in color (closer to the red spectrum) so the fades will be more contrasted whereas the Cone indigo is more on the green spectrum which will make your fades lighter and greener in color. When it comes to the heated debate over whether you should choose selvage or non-selvage jeans, you should always choose selvage as a first priority since it is of better quality. The shuttle looms weave the fabric much better and the fabric itself is less likely to tear over the course of the wear.
Non-selvage should only be chosen if you simply want the Japanese Denim or the Cone Denim but don't want to pay the price associated with the selvage denim. It's cheaper to produce because it can be made in a larger sheet instead of confined to 36". Non-selvage denim (Cone and Japanese) produce some great fades because the fabric can be woven into broken twill, herringbone, box twill, twisted yarn, and even frankenfabric (many different types of twill all woven together, if you can find it, the fades are wicked cool!) Non-selvage denim can come in a variety of styles whereas selvage denim is usually soft, rigid, sanforized, unsanforized, right hand twill, left hand twill, broken twill, and rinse.
Both types can be dyed various colors so it's not uncommon to find red denim, green denim, purple, etc. because the dyeing process is completely separate to the weaving process. So go out and try a pair of non-selvage jeans that are rigid for a first try then move up to rigid selvage jeans. If you don't want rigid then rinse is a good start although it will take longer to see fades. Ultimately it's a personal preference but both types (selvage and non) produce great fades when beaten and washed appropriately. Get a pair, either type, and get some fades going on so you can see how they hold up yourself because you may like the non-selvage jeans instead of selvage or vice versa. Next time we'll discuss the difference between the types of twill used to make denim.