Left Hand Twill (LHT): Is woven from bottom to right while moving up to the top left of the fabric, it's also known as “S-twill." The denim producer, LEE, originally used LHT, which has a softer feel than right hand twill because it is woven with Z-twist yarn, which is spun clockwise. If a left hand twill denim is worn heavily over a period of time, the end results will typically be fuzzy, vertical fading. Remember that LHT will twist after washing so your inseam that was perfectly straight will appear twisted on a left direction due to tension in the washing process.
Right Hand Twill (RHT): Is the most common and can be easily identified by the diagonal pattern that moves from the bottom left of the fabric to the top right. This style was made famous by Levi's and has become the industry standard among many denim producers. RHT is also known as “Z-twill”, it has a flatter and smoother surface than the other types of twill. One differentiating characteristic is how much tighter and compact the RHT is due to being woven with S-twist yarn; which is spun counterclockwise, and creates more defined fades over time. Also this fabric will twist after washing just like LHT but the opposite direction.
Broken Twill: When you combine RHT with LHT, you get the memorable and unique Broken Twill. It was first used by Wrangler in 1964, broken twill alternates left and right at every two warp ends to create a peculiar zig-zag pattern. The premise behind this twill was that it would help combat twisting after washing denim, as is common with right hand or left hand twill; after the denim is washed it tends to twist due to tension of the fabric. So Broken Twill fabric will never twist after washing because of the alternating twill.
Now that you know the types of twill, you're well on your way to getting what you want in a pair of jeans. We have a plethora of knowledge that we want to share with you so check back twice a week for more information in the Vintage Fashion Industry and we'll provide you with the best knowledge around. Next we will be discussing "Era Specific" clothing.