This is an age old question of whether Cone Denim (made in the USA) or Japanese Denim (made in Japan) is better than the other. Having handled both, seen fades from both, seen wear and tear from both, and seen a good ol' beating from both, it's safe to say (from our perspective) that they're both GREAT! The only question remains is if you want American Fabric or Japanese Fabric. Well we're here to help you out, although our suggestions could be biased but that's not possible, we sell both types of fabric! Now let's get on with it since we know you're itching to discover the difference.
It all starts with the dye, both use Indigo but the Cone Indigo is lighter and tends to be more green cast whereas the Japanese Indigo is darker and more red cast. The cotton is rope dyed (a process where the yarns are dipped then oxidized, the more dips, the darker the indigo) which allows for all sorts of variations in the indigo when you begin to wear them. When you fade either pair, the indigo rubs off on creases that you create. From the bending action of the knees to the creasing of the pelvic area, everything will flake off the indigo revealing the under layer. Having had the pleasure of handling both fabrics, seeing how they age, and seeing how they hold up; the conclusion is simple. What do you prefer?
Do you prefer to have the green cast American Denim that will fade to an assortment of light blue and green hues because of the sweat, dirt, and love put into making them that way? Or perhaps you'll like the red cast Japanese Denim that will fade to an electric then cobalt blue after the thrashing you'll give them? It's ultimately up to you but we can say this: as far as beatings and thrashings go, they both hold up very well. Cone Denim is considered subpar by the hardcore enthusiasts because they prefer the Japanese Denim from the underground Japan-only brands but the truth is still the truth and you'll want to choose for yourself. Whichever way you choose, the Japanese Denim that can cost upwards of $300+ or the American Denim that can be had for upwards of $200+ it all matters from your own experience.
Japanese Denim is also slubbier because of the looser weave and it contains more irregularities in the denim so the fades will have a more unique texture whereas the Cone Denim is more uniform with a tighter weave to the threads and the fades will be more uniform as well because of the weave. The lighter the indigo dye on the jeans, then the lighter your transition to fades will be. If you choose a darker indigo jean then your fades are going to be more contrasting as well as how you set your honeycombs, whiskers, and stacking. But those terms are for next time!
It all starts with the dye, both use Indigo but the Cone Indigo is lighter and tends to be more green cast whereas the Japanese Indigo is darker and more red cast. The cotton is rope dyed (a process where the yarns are dipped then oxidized, the more dips, the darker the indigo) which allows for all sorts of variations in the indigo when you begin to wear them. When you fade either pair, the indigo rubs off on creases that you create. From the bending action of the knees to the creasing of the pelvic area, everything will flake off the indigo revealing the under layer. Having had the pleasure of handling both fabrics, seeing how they age, and seeing how they hold up; the conclusion is simple. What do you prefer?
Do you prefer to have the green cast American Denim that will fade to an assortment of light blue and green hues because of the sweat, dirt, and love put into making them that way? Or perhaps you'll like the red cast Japanese Denim that will fade to an electric then cobalt blue after the thrashing you'll give them? It's ultimately up to you but we can say this: as far as beatings and thrashings go, they both hold up very well. Cone Denim is considered subpar by the hardcore enthusiasts because they prefer the Japanese Denim from the underground Japan-only brands but the truth is still the truth and you'll want to choose for yourself. Whichever way you choose, the Japanese Denim that can cost upwards of $300+ or the American Denim that can be had for upwards of $200+ it all matters from your own experience.
Japanese Denim is also slubbier because of the looser weave and it contains more irregularities in the denim so the fades will have a more unique texture whereas the Cone Denim is more uniform with a tighter weave to the threads and the fades will be more uniform as well because of the weave. The lighter the indigo dye on the jeans, then the lighter your transition to fades will be. If you choose a darker indigo jean then your fades are going to be more contrasting as well as how you set your honeycombs, whiskers, and stacking. But those terms are for next time!